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标题: 今天正好看到一篇关于如何拍烟火的博客， [打印本页]

作者: smellfish 时间: 2011-6-13 08:45
标题: 今天正好看到一篇关于如何拍烟火的博客，
From: http://www.joemcnally.com/blog/2 ... =feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+joemcnally+%28Joe+McNally%27s+Blog%29&utm_content=Google+Reader

Summer’s here! Time to shoot some fireworks. Below is a small instructional essay from the Life Guide to Digital Photography. I’ve shot some of the biggest fireworks displays in history, so I just kind of dove back into those to remember things I did right and things I did wrong. And things I didn’t think of at the time, or should’ve remembered to do. If you read this, or get the book, you might have an easier time than I did, being out there thinking, “Geez, I wish I had remembered to bring….”

Everybody loves to shoot fireworks. It has lots of connotations—holiday, patriotism, hot dogs, weekend, kids, family. Time to relax. Time to shoot some pictures.
Okay, make a checklist. Camera. Wide angle zoom. Telephoto zoom. Flash cards. Cable release. Spare camera battery. Tripod. Headlamp, and hand held flashlight. Watch with timer function. Black card. (More on that later.)
That’s pretty much the photo kit. What else to think of? Rain gear, both for cameras and you. You can get fancy rain gear designed for cameras and lenses, or just use plastic bags and baggies. Couple of bungee cords to keep the bags on the camera if the wind starts whipping about. Water and power bars—you’ll be out there a while. Bug repellent. Comfortable clothing and shoes. The car might be quite a ways away, and you’ll be walking a fair piece. Advil. (Advil is always on my equipment list.)
Anything to do beforehand? You bet. Scout the location. Best to know what you are getting into, where they shoot the fireworks from, what the background will be like. How big will the display be? How long will it go for? Most fireworks displays are well over in a half hour or less, and if you are stumbling around in the crowd looking for a spot and trying to setup in the dark, you’ll just be starting to make decent exposures as they light up the sky with the crescendo and say goodnight till next year.
That’s right, next year. Most big shoot ‘em ups are yearly events. Argh, the pressure!
So scout. Get your spot. Get there early. I mean early. Like, be the first car in the parking lot. Pack a soft cooler sling bag, throw an icepack in there, and know that in that bag is your sustenance till maybe late at night. For jobs like this, my Ipod and earphones are a must. Maybe a collapsible chair, and a small waterproof tarp. Think your way into this. What could go wrong? It’s a photo shoot, so the answer to that is, just about everything. Try to ensure success by envisioning the shot and the potential problems in making the shot before you walk out the door.
Like, do you need a permit to put your tripod down? Did you have to call the town about this adventure? Most likely not, but in this post 911 world, photographers are often treated as being just this side of a recidivist offender, so it might be worth a phone call.
Okay, prepped and ready. Time to frame up the shot, which is a bit trickier than you might think. First off, when I shoot fireworks, I always get my frame, plus about 20%. I can always tighten up, but I want to give those fireworks room to play up there in the heavens. Frame too tight, you’ll have tracer lines of color going right out of the upper part of your picture, creating lines of interest that will pull your viewer’s eye right out with them.
So give them room to breathe and determine whether the shot is horizontal or vertical. Remember that most fireworks pix, if they are just of the explosions in the sky, are, at the end of the day, an exercise in color, nothing more. Even something as splashy as a pyrotechnic display needs context. So perhaps you can frame up with the object that is being celebrated, such as the Statue of Liberty. Or use the semi-silhouetted crowd as a foreground element. Or boats and bridges out in the water, with the water acting as a giant reflector board filled with color.
The variations that may occur with your framing are the reason to have at least a couple lenses with you. As mentioned above, two reasonable zooms, one wide and one telephoto, should do you fine.
Metering? Yikes, how do you meter a fast moving rocket moving through the black sky? The answer is, you don’t, really. This is a situation to shut off a bunch of the auto this and that on the camera, and go manual. Also, make sure to turn the flash off. Some cameras will read the darkness in in certain modes and activate that puppy. Ever see the opening of an Olympics, where thousands of people are using point and shoots, and their flashes are going off like crazy? Know what they’re lighting? The shoulder of the person in front of them. Fireworks, unless you are trying a radically different approach, are generally a no flash zone.
Okay, now set up manual. Fireworks are brighter than you might think, so you don’t need to open the lens really wide, which is a bit counter-intuitive, I know, ‘cause it’s dark. But my experience with fireworks wide open is that you drain the color out of them. They’ll just register as a white streak. Be careful. You can over-expose fireworks quite easily.
F8 is a reasonable starting point. Some photogs I know go even lower on the aperture scale, down to f11 or even f16. Over time, you will find which settings work for you. (I used to take notes at the end of a fireworks job, just to keep myself tuned up for next year. No real need for that anymore, as the metadata tells you what works and what doesn’t.)
Set the shutter to bulb. This mode keeps the shutter open as long as the release button is pushed. But you are not physically pushing that button are you?! No! This is absolutely a job for a cable release. Nowadays, most cable releases simply electric cables which jack into the camera and activate the shutter. When you punch the button on the cable release the shutter is at your command, and will stay open as long as you want. And, very significantly, the button you are pushing is not on the camera or the tripod. With lengthy exposures, even the slightest jiggle or vibration is the enemy.
This is important, because at f8, the shutter will be open for a while, meaning anywhere from four to 10-15 seconds. (Remember if you have a foreground element in the picture, such as a monument, you have to make sure that lit up monument is exposed properly. In many ways, that foreground object will determine the length of your exposure.)

Again, due to the brightness of fireworks, you can work at a reasonable or even low ISO. Something in the neighborhood of 100 or 200 will do fine. The faster your ISO, the shorter your shutter speeds, which will deprive you of recording those wonderful tracers of light into the sky.
Some shooters time the launch of the rockets and open their shutter accordingly, keeping it open for, say, 8-10 seconds, then closing down. This ensures that they will record the path of the pyrotechnic into the night sky, and it’s explosion. This is a fine approach. Give it a try.
Others use a black card. A black card is just that, a black card. Nothing mysterious or fancy. It can be a piece of black cardboard, or foam core board. Or it can just be an index card covered with black tape. (Be sure it is not shiny tape. That might pick up slivers of light and reflect it back into the lens. Use a matte black type of photo tape, often called gaffer tape.)
This way, you can keep your shutter open for very lengthy periods of time, and record multiple starbursts. You open the shutter, and shoot one explosion, then cover the lens with the card, and wait for the next. You can experiment with this trick, and produce really terrific results by layering multiple fireworks into one picture.
(Also, say, you have the Brooklyn Bridge as an architectural element in the foreground, and the proper exposure for it is f8 at 10 seconds. This limits your fireworks shooting range, right? Gotta get the bridge right, so the exposure is a done deal. But, with the black card, if you are quick enough, you can uncover just the upper portion of the sky, while blocking the area of the lens which is recording the bridge. This is dicey. You have to move the card quickly, hovering it around where the bridge ends and the sky begins. If you have ever made a black and white print in the darkroom, think of this as burning and dodging right at the camera lens. Can’t keep the card static or it will create a hard line of obvious exposure change. It has to hover, quickly jiggling around that sky bridge borderline. If you pull this off right, you can keep your lens open for several batches of fireworks, extending over 20-30 seconds, filling the sky with color. But—this is an experiment! Back yourself up by shooting some “straight” frames.)
At the beginnings of the digital rage, this technique was a bit problematic, because seriously lengthy exposures produced a lot of digital noise. The longer the shutter is open, the longer the chip is “on” building up heat with every passing second. That sensor heat would really fray away at the quality of the digital file you would be trying to produce. Bad news. Long time exposures were the Achilles heel of early digital cameras.
Predictably, advances in digital camera technology has smoothed out a lot of those problems, but it is wise to experiment with your particular model and see what its’ tolerances are. As you might suspect, the higher end models handle long exposure well, while the more basic cameras will have limitations. Get to know what your camera is capable of.
Other bits and pieces: Don’t shoot all night long at one exposure. (If you are on bulb, you definitely won’t anyway.) But this is an occasion for bracketing, and shooting as many frames as possible. Also, shoot right away when they start! Fireworks displays can build up a lot of smoke over a series of explosions, and if you are smack in the wind pattern that blows that smoke towards your lens, you can end up thinking you’re shooting a war zone. So shoot immediately, and fast.

作者: Bingster 时间: 2011-6-13 09:43
坐沙发看。

作者: ddt668 时间: 2011-6-13 09:52
Thx for the info. Will try in summer

作者: 闹妈 时间: 2011-6-13 10:15

smellfish 发表于 2011-6-13 08:45
From: http://www.joemcnally.com/blog/2011/06/13/shooting-fireworks/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium ...

这是给我的。谢谢！

作者: Brady 时间: 2011-6-13 16:28
我听说就是架好三脚架，调到f8，打开B门，等。。。。。。

没拍过，很少去赶什么时间地点拍东西。

作者: smellfish 时间: 2011-6-13 17:27

Brady 发表于 2011-6-13 16:28
我听说就是架好三脚架，调到f8，打开B门，等。。。。。。

没拍过，很少去赶什么时间地点拍东西。 ...

不会就F8这么简单吧, 别的不说, ISO设多少? 对焦在多远? 这个是逃不过去的.

作者: Bingster 时间: 2011-6-13 21:09

Brady 发表于 2011-6-13 16:28
我听说就是架好三脚架，调到f8，打开B门，等。。。。。。

没拍过，很少去赶什么时间地点拍东西。 ...

I didn't use B门 when shooting firework pictures.

作者: smellfish 时间: 2011-6-13 21:41

几亩瓜还真那么简单, b门,爆5秒,爆10秒, 再那种环境下差别不是很大, 对焦自然是无穷大喽

不要过早轻易的下结论, 我前面提出的问题是ISO设多少? ISO50 5S 和 ISO400 5S差别不大?
再说, 按你说的, 曝光就5S和10S, 用B门的意义何在? 现在相机大部分都支持30S之内的曝光吧?

对焦无穷大? 更有问题, 除非烟火真在老远的地方, 你要说用超焦距我还可以接受, 但是用超焦距也不是那么简单的吧, 你要么会查景深表, 要么很熟悉某些焦段的景深表, 反正我是记不住, 总得查.

看了不少用B门拍摄的烟火照片, 有的极好, 有的很失败, 所以用好B门拍烟火绝对不是一件简单的事情. M档拍烟火也是一个很好的选择.

最后, 用B门的话, 最低限度, 得有一条快门线吧, 我的反正是找不到了, 没那么简单.

作者: smellfish 时间: 2011-6-13 22:11
唉, 我这说一个问题, 几亩瓜你就补充一点, 先不说你的回答并不准确, 只会误导别人, 就算按你说的做, 这已经不是很简单了, 不信你去问问其他雪友明白你在说啥不. 何况依我看, 按你说的这几点打印出来就去拍烟火, 失败的概率非常大.

我自己没拍过烟火, 所以有很多疑问, 你要是拍过的话, 不妨给出几张范例, 然后讲解一下你是怎么拍摄的, 供大家学习.

作者: 姐妹龙 时间: 2011-6-14 12:38
回复 8 # smellfish 的帖子

几亩瓜  光污染要坚决杜绝  发表于昨天 23:00

几亩瓜  还有一个做法, 用黑纸挡镜头, 看见花了快速撤, 可以折腾2-3下  发表于昨天 23:00

几亩瓜  iso 当然也用最小的.  发表于昨天 22:59

几亩瓜  小光圈下, 景深足够用, 就算不是扭到头, 往回一点焦距指定没问题  发表于昨天 22:58

这几亩瓜还真是瞎说, 光圈,iso什么都用最小的, 那有不是拍星空...一看就是外行

作者: lupo 时间: 2011-6-14 14:49
学习！这么多东西！

作者: smellfish 时间: 2011-6-14 14:54

lupo 发表于 2011-6-14 14:49
学习！这么多东西！

像是HDR的

作者: smellfish 时间: 2011-6-14 18:19
本帖最后由 smellfish 于 2011-6-14 18:24 编辑

High Dynamic Range, 同一场景多次曝光的照片合成.
http://www.google.com/search?q=h ... AQ&biw=1920&bih=978

作者: lupo 时间: 2011-6-18 14:38
无忌上面看到的照片
温哥华国际烟花汇演(Celebration of Light)每年7月在英吉利湾(English Bay)举行。一年一度的烟花汇演已成为大温地区每年夏季最受欢迎的活动之一,吸引數以10萬計的民眾前往觀賞。

作者: smellfish 时间: 2011-6-18 15:49

lupo 发表于 2011-6-18 14:38
无忌上面看到的照片
温哥华国际烟花汇演(Celebration of Light)每年7月在英吉利湾(English Bay)举行。一年 ...

连接图片看不到, 搜到这个

http://photosalonla.org/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?t=4431

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